Hairsprays and hair styling products are among the most widely used cosmetic products worldwide and, unfortunately, also among the most environmentally problematic. The synthetic polymers they contain are not biodegradable, pass through wastewater treatment plants virtually unimpeded, and accumulate as microplastics in water, soil, and ultimately in the human food chain. Until now, the market has lacked a genuine, fully biodegradable alternative for the hair styling sector. A challenge for materials research that the Fraunhofer Institute for Silicate Research ISC and its industry partner IPPM Technologies GmbH have taken on.

Together, Fraunhofer ISC and IPPM have developed an innovative solution using eco-friendly materials: a setting hairspray based on silica that is fully biodegradable and can compete with established market products in terms of holding power.

Consumers are demanding sustainable alternatives 

Policy measures such as the EU-wide ban on synthetic plastic microbeads in cosmetic products, effective in 2023, and growing environmental awareness are increasing pressure on the cosmetics industry to develop products free of problematic ingredients. While hair care products such as shampoos are now often formulated without silicones or synthetic emulsifiers, fully biodegradable solutions are still lacking in hair styling products. Market-leading hair styling products continue to rely on environmentally harmful plastics such as polyvinylpyrrolidone derivatives or polyacrylates combined with surfactants, film enhancers, and UV protection. After application, these form a water-insoluble film on the hair that only partially washes off in the shower. The result: weighed-down hair with less volume and microplastics in wastewater.

The solution: natural active ingredient, novel mechanism

The key to this development lies in the targeted use of silicic acid, a substance ubiquitous in nature and harmless to humans and the environment. Silicic acid is a natural component of our environment. It is found in oceans and soils and also enters our food chain via plankton and plants. It is neither toxic nor harmful; in fact, it is even associated with positive effects such as bone and skin regeneration.

Technological breakthrough: Silica precursors cross-link directly on the hair

Unlike conventional products that contain dissolved synthetic polymers, this new development relies on molecular precursors. Using a specially developed microwave process, the project team synthesized so-called silica clusters: chemically cross-linked silica precursors that can be packaged in a spray can in a formulation based on natural ingredients while remaining stable during storage.

The underlying mechanism of action is particularly innovative: Unlike conventional products, in which the dissolved synthetic polymers are deposited as a film on the hair, the molecular precursors trigger an instant cross-linking reaction only upon spraying. This creates a thin, supple silica film directly on the hair surface, strengthening the hair.

High-performance and residue-free

In standardized comparative tests, the new product achieves a competitive, and in some cases even superior, strengthening effect compared to established market products. The outer cuticle layer of the hair is smoothed, the hair surface becomes more uniform, and less friction occurs. As a result, the hair feels both strong and supple and provides the desired hold for the hairstyle. When washed, the silica film dissolves completely, forming natural, water-soluble monosilicic acid, which does not contaminate drinking water and is harmless to the environment. Since no residue forms on the hair, the hair’s natural volume is preserved. In the future, silica clusters could therefore replace environmentally problematic plastics such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, or silicones in hairsprays and other styling products.

Sustainable development thanks to research funding

This development marks an important step toward sustainable hair styling without compromising the environment. It was publicly funded as part of a ZIM cooperation project (Central Innovation Program for SMEs). The combination of Fraunhofer ISC’s application-oriented materials expertise and IPPM Technologies’ industrial expertise formed the basis for this sustainable cosmetic development. The project team is already considering further applications for the specially formulated silica.

The eco-friendly hairspray is currently being prepared for bottling. Once all requirements have been met, the product will be available on the market by the end of 2026.